From: Lucian Mogosanu Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2018 12:23:48 +0000 (+0300) Subject: posts: 07c, 07d X-Git-Tag: v0.11~112 X-Git-Url: https://git.mogosanu.ro/?a=commitdiff_plain;h=deaa7accd2071098bf77aa3ad1520512e0b7e778;p=thetarpit.git posts: 07c, 07d --- diff --git a/posts/y05/07c-kronstadt.markdown b/posts/y05/07c-kronstadt.markdown new file mode 100644 index 0000000..76d58eb --- /dev/null +++ b/posts/y05/07c-kronstadt.markdown @@ -0,0 +1,171 @@ +--- +postid: 07c +title: Kronstadt, et alia +date: October 19, 2018 +author: Lucian Mogoșanu +tags: in-the-flesh +--- + +

+**Motto**: +I'm filling my travel log with all these +[fancy][copenhagen]-[schmancy][heraklion] +towns in Europe, when I haven't seen barely enough of home. +

+ +By the way, notice how Romanians, these Daco-Latin peoples[^1], have +these lovely towns with beautiful names ending in stadt? How could this +be? + +Anyway, this stadt, like the [other one][hermannstadt], was founded +sometime during the first centuries of the previous millenium, by the +very same Sași who were looking to settle at the northern foot of the +southern Carpathian mountains. And hey, look: + + + +In front of the photographer lie some walls, guarding a town hosting +nice German houses, a variety of churches[^2] and, as the eagle-eyed +reader may have noticed, some buildings that must have been erected by +the communists, at least judging by their architecture. But then what +lies behind the photographer? Well, behind the photographer lies a whole +mountain! Tâmpa, which somehow people managed to almost completely +integrate into the town's landscape. Here's a view of the town as seen +from the belvedere spot: + + + +No, I did not fall off the top of the world. Just sat my ass there for a +while. + +Just for the record, for some reason I enjoyed the atmosphere in Brașov +more than that of [Sibiu][hermannstadt]. I have no idea how that's even +possible, seeing as how Sibiu is "one of the cultural capitals of +Europe", while Brașov is this small town industrialized by force by the +communists, bearing the name Orașul Stalin -- literally, Stalin City -- +for about a decade during that era. And yet I did very much enjoy it, +and this isn't town-atmosphere-based introspection either, but it might +all be based on my impression -- just that, a mere impression -- that +there were fewer [poor people][sibiu-sad-story] lying around. + + + +Above, a very old bench made of stone, on one of the roads from Tâmpa, +leading downtown. Tell me, who makes these things nowadays? And why +don't they make them anymore? We've "progressed past that point", right? +Well, fuck your dear mother as well. Anyway, below we have one view from +the so-called Council Square, followed by one view of Tâmpa from +downtown. + + + + + +In case you're wondering, the square was far from empty, I just sat +there for a while to find a good moment for my shot. + +Moving on -- below, a view of Râșnov, also known as Rosenau (the one in +Romania), meaning something roughly along the lines of "the meadow of +roses"[^3]. I was told that this view is quite unique, so had I not +mentioned it, I'm sure the reader would have guessed the location +themselves. + + + + + +Above, the fortress bearing the same name. Below, views from inside the +fortress. + + + + + + + +In this last photo, notice the cats playing around on the grass. They +did not give one grain of fuck about the so-called humans meandering +about. + +And we're back in Brașov. The photos below capture a small, dark alley, +behind the walls[^4], with a small river flowing to the side and a hill +bearing some towers on the other side of the stream. In the first photo, +some kids look like they're about to try taking over the world or +something, I don't know. + + + + + +Below, [another "gang"][gang], and no, no Leyla Black at the end of +it. The end depicted in the photo brings us to a secondary (yet well +circulated) street in the historical centre, while the other end leads +to the George Enescu square. + + + +Anyway, we stopped at this pub that had a *very* fancy hipster-ey +interior design, with a piano and old books and everything. Below, +voilà! a very small part of that everything: + + + +Dat ass, eh? But wait, there's more! + + + +I hope you noticed the smile on their faces. I hope you notice the +expression on her face in particular, which might put the whole +"[do not forget thy whip][zarathustra]"/"[de ce se bate femeia][femeia]"/etc. +thing in some perspective for you. And if it doesn't, then well, what +can I say. + +We end this brief story with another artistic moment: + + + + + +Is that Picasso, I wonder? Looks a bit like him. Anyway, if you happen +to visit Romania, make sure to drop by Brașov and the surrounding +towns. Embrace the small yet substantial nuggets of history, and (my +advice is to) skip the whole Dracula crap while you're there. + +[^1]: Mândri că suntem români, nu-i așa? + + Mândri că sunteți vite, mai degrabă. + +[^2]: Among which the famous Black Church, nowadays mostly a museum -- + meh. I hear the organ is very much functional though, although I + didn't get to hear it during my excursion through town. Too bad, but + something tells me that I'll want to see this one again soon, so + y'know, there's always next time! + +[^3]: Take a look at the town's coat of arms, it's not accidental. + +[^4]: No, really, that's what they call it. + +[copenhagen]: /posts/y05/07a-copenhagen.html +[heraklion]: /posts/y05/07b-heraklion.html +[hermannstadt]: /posts/y05/079-hermannstadt.html +[sibiu-sad-story]: /posts/y05/079-hermannstadt.html#fn7 +[gang]: /posts/y05/079-hermannstadt.html#selection-178.0-178.1 +[zarathustra]: http://archive.is/BPYGP#selection-3074.0-3074.1 +[femeia]: http://trilema.com/2011/de-ce-se-bate-femeia/ diff --git a/posts/y05/07d-klausenburg.markdown b/posts/y05/07d-klausenburg.markdown new file mode 100644 index 0000000..af9b738 --- /dev/null +++ b/posts/y05/07d-klausenburg.markdown @@ -0,0 +1,288 @@ +--- +postid: 07d +title: Klausenburg, et alia +date: October 22, 2018 +author: Lucian Mogoșanu +tags: in-the-flesh +--- + +

+**Motto**: +When they not be [stadt][kronstadt]-ing, they be burg-ing. +

+ +... though to be completely fair, reducing this to "Klausenburg" is not +completely unlike saying the human body is a well-rounded extension of +the nipple[^1]. So what else is there to say? + +For one, we can say that finding oneself in the middle of town after a +ten-hour train trip is not the best way to examine it the first time +after eight (or was it maybe six?) years. I couldn't recognize any of +the places, so I just went to sleep until next day, when we jumped +straight in the middle of the botanical garden: + + + +Cluj's botanical garden is bigger, longer and uncut-er than the one from +[Bucharest][gradina-botanica], and my meagre smartpnohe camera didn't +really do it justice, *despite* this being mid-October, so outside of +the season when it's cool to photograph flowers. For example, just take +a look at the Japanese garden: + + + + + +or at this very nice path in the systematics area: + + + +or at these diversely-coloured trees: + + + +or at these very nicely-sculpted boobs: + + + +or at this very lovely buddlejacea: + + + +or, or, or... is reader still with me? Okay, buckle up then! Below, +views of the Little Someș: + + + + + + + +The first and the last view are taken from the same bridge, yes. + + + + + +Above, views from Cluj's own belvedere point (one of them, at least), +the Cetățuia hill -- "uie" being one of the many diminutives employed in +Romanian, "cetate" being "citadel"; so, Citadelly? Below, a snobbish +photo of a lemonade with matcha that, I have to say, was quite pleasing +to the taste buds: + + + +The ustensil on the table was used to ingurgitate one delicious, *very* +dark, piece of brownie cake. My culinary fetishes aside, I was surprised +to notice that Cluj lives more through its traffic-jammed roadways than +its promenades, from which point of view it's more similar to Bucharest +than I would have hoped and expected -- although, to be fair, there is a +marked difference between drivers in Cluj and the ones in Bucharest, +namely that the former aren't completely fucked up in the head. However, +take this for example: + + + +This is the best photo I could take of Horea street, one of the main +streets in Cluj. I stood there for a while on an early Saturday +afternoon, hoping to catch a moment without cars passing from either +direction, but no luck. So what can I say, thank you, CJ-14-PKW! + + + + + +Above, a couple of shots from the central park. You may be wondering who +the Ciolan dude was. I wondered the same, then found out he was a top +conductor in Cluj's philarmonic. Well, he must have done something right +to get that statue! + +Below, a couple of black swans on a lake; also, some nasty plastic shit +that could've been cropped out of the photo, but really, why sweep the +pink flamingos under the rug. + + + +Further below, an artsy-fartsy autumnal one, followed by a view of the +main square in Cluj. In the far plane lie the St. Michael +Romano-Catholic church and a statue of Matthias Corvinus. + + + + + +Looks a bit lively, doesn't it? Well, it wasn't that animated the +evening before. There was one small street that lived through all its +pores, though: at the edge of the (I think) Zorilor neighbourhood, going +through Calea Moților past the Ursus beer factory and towards the +centre, one can make a right turn on Clinicilor, and then an immediate +right on what is called Strada Piezișă -- literally, the Askew Street -- +which can be briefly described as a magnet for students looking for a +good time. Yes, the street was loud and crowded (with people, not cars) +but at least it wasn't dead. + +Walking further to the southeast towards the botanical garden, one can +also find a great Japanese restaurant. This is where I was gonna post +Japanese food porn, but I'd rather not insult the reader; I'm sure you +know how sushi looks. + +Anyway, back in the central park there's this place, the Casino, which +is actually a sort of museum or something: + + + +This was the last photo that I took in Cluj. Right after that we rushed +back to the train station, where a train brought us to this backwater +shithole known as Teiuș, Alba. Now, I don't know about the town itself, +I'm just judging by the train station, this desolate, stinking, +miserable place where we waited for our next train, while being +entertained, and entertaining an eighty year old woman "din popor"[^2] +who was going all the way to Căciulata, to what they call nowadays a +spa. + +And then the next train came -- the train from hell, going at a mere +sixty kilometers per hour and stopping in all the stations, but always +being a few centimeters short of jumping from the rail track way out in +the fields. And we even slept through that, at least until the train +brought us to... + + + + + +... wait, could this be -- [Hermannstadt][hermannstadt]?! So what am I +doing here again, anyway? + +Well, bear with me; first, the Sibiu in October is very different from +the one at the end of July, in that it's much colder, but otherwise +still quite full of people, and in any case, and quite unexpectedly, +more animated than Cluj. There was a film festival in the Large Square, +but unlike the music festival that I attended last time, I completely +ignored this one, and so did many others visiting town. + +What I did instead was to dedicate a couple of days to a so-called +museum tour that was quite a mixed bag. We started off with the natural +history museum, which was short but cute, then we continued with the +contemporary art museum, which is in fact a very small art gallery -- +the photos there were nice though. Then we moved on to the Altemberger +history museum, where I begin bitching about how Romanian museum keepers +are, with *very*, *very*, *very* few exceptions, a bunch of fucking +orcs. + +"The photos were nice", you see, except where they forgot to add any +meaningful labels or info about the authors. The prehistoric exhibits +were also nice, except for the part where I wish I could have been able +to compare them with their counterparts I've seen at the museum in +[Copenhagen][copenhagen]. These people don't give +ANY. FUCKING. CONTEXT. to their exhibits, which is absolutely +infuriating. It's insulting, and not to me, you see, but, say, to the +Goldsmiths' Guild, which was a real organization doing real things back +in the day, which those orcs showcase in some place in Sibiu without +absolutely any sort of attached description that was due, and no, not +optional in any way. And then the same orcs have the gall to show me +photos of Sarmizegetusa and Trajan's column, as if I couldn't take my +backpack and head there to see them myself. Fucking idiots. + +The Altemberger tour was saved by a couple of people in the armory and +the treasury actually sitting for a moment to explain things. And what +really saved the whole thing was von Brukenthal himself, as dead as he +is, by leaving that palace in the Large Square, which became the museum, +which now hosts great pieces of art which you must take the time to see +if you're ever in Sibiu. The Romanian art gallery, at least, is +unquestionably impressive; but one can also see for example a library +storing books written in three languages, from which English is notably +absent. And no, I couldn't take photos of any of these, because of all +the security "security"-ing around the place. + +By now this "et alia" has gotten way too long, so I'll put an end to it +here. However, I'm not done with Sibiu -- in fact, this time the photo +session was so productive that I'm going to dedicate it another entire +article. Stay tuned! + +[^1]: The Little Someș is as good a place as any to form a settlement in + Ardeal, given that one can choose between all these streams flowing + in the region -- take a map of Romania and look up the rivers, and + you'll notice that there's a considerable number of them filling up + the area, much to the frustration of Romanian kids studying + geography. So then, what brings this particular place apart from all + the others? + + Well, Cluj is sitting in the geographical equivalent of a frying + pan, with hills all around it forming the edges. And while + historians know almost nothing about the (most likely pre-Roman) + name Napoca, they do know that sometime around 1200 some Germans, + like the ones who founded [Villa Hermanni][hermannstadt] or + [Corona][kronstadt], were living in this place called Castrum Clus + -- literally, a closed castle. + + So, to put the history of Cluj in perspective, it was populated by + Dacians, Romans, Transylvanian Saxons, Hungarians and what we + nowadays call "[proud Romanians][romani]", under the rule of Romans, + Hungarians, Ottomans, the Habsburg Empire, and more recently + [a-woke-en Romanians][desteapta-te]. It was and remains the heart of + Transylvania, where most of the guilds in the area developed and + thrived for a long time, where scholarly places thrived as early as + the sixteenth century, and so on and so forth. + + Compare and contrast with [Bucharest][bucharest]'s short history. + +[^2]: This description of the Romanian peasant would deserve a post of + its own, or maybe a whole book if we're to believe, say, Marin + Preda, who wrote no less than two volumes on the subject. But let's + try to give it a very brief shot. + + "În popor", as they say in Romanian, that is, in + [rural][urban-rural] settings, information acquisition is cheap, + i.e. everyone knows everyone else and their whereabouts. And how to + find some info on someone, other than by simply asking; and what + else is there to do when you don't know people around you, other + than getting to know them and their whereabouts. + + Therefore the man, or in our case the woman "din popor", is a very + friendly person, sometimes too friendly, who in short order will + find everything around you by way of simply asking, and who will + tell you everything about her and her values. And heavens forbid you + try to avoid her or wave her away; it just doesn't work, because + she's been through life and thus she can easily read you, while you, + you haven't, so you're stuck with doing the socially acceptable + thing -- because what else is there to do in the middle of nowhere! + + Anyway, what Preda didn't see was that the old peasant faced with + modernity will slightly change their values, through their + children's impact with said modernity. Working the land is no longer + a value; instead, go to France, do some construction work, then come + back and build a house, or maybe buy a block or two. Of course, they + didn't get to see their children paying that outrageously high rent + on a lousy studio, and the children embraced it and no one ever + wondered why they came back to the village, so... what can I say. + +[kronstadt]: /posts/y05/07c-kronstadt.html +[hermannstadt]: /posts/y05/079-hermannstadt.html +[romani]: /posts/y05/07c-kronstadt.html#fn1 +[desteapta-te]: /posts/y03/054-desteapta-te-romane.html +[bucharest]: /posts/y04/077-lacul-morii.html +[gradina-botanica]: /posts/y04/070-bucharest-botanical-garden.html +[urban-rural]: http://trilema.com/2012/anonimity-or-the-urban-versus-rural-dispute/ +[copenhagen]: /posts/y05/07a-copenhagen.html diff --git a/uploads/2018/10/brasov-01-thumb.jpg b/uploads/2018/10/brasov-01-thumb.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8095137 Binary files /dev/null and b/uploads/2018/10/brasov-01-thumb.jpg differ diff --git a/uploads/2018/10/brasov-01.jpg b/uploads/2018/10/brasov-01.jpg new file mode 100755 index 0000000..0d6d990 Binary files 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